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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.